2009年4月22日 星期三

進入澳洲內陸(7)

  離開Alice Springs和West McDonnell Ranges National Park後,義大利佬David加入我們的行程,和我們分攤油資,使我們減輕了一些負擔。

  我們早已計劃完畢,就是到Tennant Creek休息一晚,這地方沒什麼太大特點,但是這個城鎮南方一百公里有魔鬼大理石,這些大理石在原住民的傳說裡是彩虹蛇的蛋。根據地質學家的研究,這些巨石是火山融岩的殘留。但這裡的巨石的排置方式倒令人大開眼界,它們就直接放在另一座巨岩上,遠看好像一顆大型的蛋,如果說這真的是蛋的話,說裡頭是惡魔我也會相信。


  結束了這邊的拍照我們又快速離開,為什麼呢?很簡單,就是在內陸總是無所不在的蒼蠅大隊又殺過來了,內陸的蒼蠅和沿海地帶的蒼蠅,我總覺得有不一樣的習性。

  Tennant Creek並非什麼特別大的鎮,一樣是街頭上老是可見原住民在遊蕩,像行屍走肉般,說穿了,這個還算像樣的小鎮只是我們留宿一晚的地點罷了。

  隔天又是開車繼續前行往北推進,今晚留宿的地方叫Mataranka,這邊有吸引人的溫泉,就在Elsey National Park裡。於是我抱著興奮的心情踩著油門。

  我是這行程裡唯一的司機,所以我總是在加油站有免費的咖啡與茶可以飲用,澳洲內陸的BP加油站有不少都有提供長途駕駛司機咖啡,好讓司機提提神與休息。在北領地裡,疲勞駕駛也是奪走司機性命的危機之一。還有北領地恐怕是所有州裡允許駕駛時速130公里的唯一的州了。

  這天也是下午三、四點就抵達目的地Mataranka,這個鎮非常小,鎮不像鎮,但我看其鎮上的標牌-Mataranka - The capital of NEVER NEVER,當下我是看不懂它的意思的,但後來我看我的旅遊聖經Lonely Planet,它是一部電影的拍攝地點,那個標牌就是在說那部電影。

  當我要開入旅舍時,路旁真的有很多的小袋鼠在旁邊看我們緩緩駛入這地方,到了旅舍後,這旅舍就在國家公園旁邊,十分接近。旅舍有養一隻小袋鼠,十分可愛,於是我就跟它合拍一張。牠一點都不怕人,還會主動接近人。

  不過接下來,等到我們進入旅舍後,也差不多傍晚了,接下來跟我們處一塊的動物就不是可愛的小袋鼠了,而是惱人的青蛙與蟾蜍,澳洲的蟾蜍我以後再來詳細介紹,這動物在澳洲可是人盡皆知的動物。而我也認知到我們的旅舍是不好的,只有我們三個入住而已,沒別人,因為,它裡頭有太多的不受歡迎的客人住一塊。

  連水槽裡都有青蛙被困在裡頭,實在太誇張,還有迷路在二樓的狹窄走廊到處亂飛的鳥,青蛙跳到二樓、蟾蜍也跳上二樓,小蟾蜍從小縫鑽進浴室,入夜後宿舍外滿是蟾蜍在開party,一次就十幾隻在走道上,十分驚人,有的蟾蜍也不小隻,甚至肥大。牠們看到人會自行跳開,對人類的害處還不算太大。但對某些動物來說,牠們的大量繁殖是一場災難,甚至毀滅。

  隔天早上我本想跳進池子裡洗溫泉喝啤酒,但人太多,而且我的同伴猴子與義大利佬David也沒有泳褲,我不好意思讓他們二人等我一人,只好匆匆離開了。在Katherine吃個中餐,下午就直達我們的目的地達爾文市。此時的氣候與景色已經跟內陸完全不同,我們來到熱帶地區,又熱又潮溼的氣候使我馬上認知到我已經結束了內陸旅程了。我平安穿過Stuart Hwy直達達爾文,五千公里的路我平安開完了,興奮地想馬上大叫。但此時,錢也差不多用盡了。。。。

進入澳洲內陸(6)

  繼續上篇的故事,接下來的目的地是West McDonnell國家公園,這國家公園並非特別有名,但它十分大(澳洲有小的國家公園嗎?),山連山變一座大山脈,澳洲佬將其規劃為國家公園,這座國家公園若從Alice Springs出發,一直向西走可到國王峽谷(Kings Canyon),但還有二百多公里就是了。

  這是我們的第一個停留點,叫Simpsons Gap:

  這地方是禁止遊客從水潭一頭游到另一頭的,兩旁的巨石相當巨大,有強烈的臨場壓下感。

  第二個停留點,是看起來沒什麼意義的巨石,但據說是原住民夢幻時代的重要指標:

  在這個點我們又被成群結隊的蒼蠅襲擾,於是沒有網罩的我們速照速離兼速速逃離,趕去下一個點,也是最重要的點,Glen Helens,這裡整個國家公園遊客其實不太多,但這終點讓我心曠神怡,於是我決定在此稍做逗留和拍些照片。


  最後的湖讓人心情完全放鬆,彷彿先前開車的疲勞全部消失了,感覺好像抵達了傳說中的伊甸園,神住的所在地。然後我又留意到旁邊的山壁上好像有洞,看起來也可爬上去到達,但我發現我只穿海灘鞋實在太難爬,所以又放棄了。不過沒有關係,這次旅程是有完美句點的。下一個目的地就要離開Alice Springs到北邊五百多公里的Tennant Creek休息了。

進入澳洲內陸(5)

  今天是4月22日星期三,來澳洲第586天,達爾文市天氣晴朗炎熱。

  上篇提到遊完Uluru與Olgas後,想回到營地裡好好休息,隔天再去國王峽谷,但可惜的是帳篷被強風吹壞,主要的柱子斷掉了,於是我們只好改變計劃直接開夜車去Alice Springs,這個城鎮是澳大利亞內陸最像樣的城鎮,該有的、你想要的設施這美麗的沙漠城鎮應有盡有。

  抵達Alice Springs時天已黑了,我只想好好的休息,昨晚睡得不好再加上白天連續馬不停蹄地開車,我十分的疲憊,但這座城鎮也一樣有不少原住民和蒼蠅。說到蒼蠅,最多的地方我要列為南澳大利亞州和北領地之間的界牌,這是我來澳大利亞後看過的最大州際界牌。我在這顯眼的界牌前拍照時,其實有十幾隻蒼蠅是在搶著跟我合照的,它們成群結隊地擾亂著每個路人,煩人到了極點,在此顯現給大家看:
  
  當然這界牌是正反兩面不同字樣的,看圖即知。

  好,提遠了,現在已在Alice Springs。人困馬乏又渴,吃完喝完洗完後當然是立刻躺平,彌補昨晚的睡不好覺囉!

  隔天我們在Alice Springs這城鎮裡拍照留念,Alice Springs在初期還只是一個非常小的鎮,但著名的內陸貫穿火車--汗(Ghan)通過此地,使得這座小鎮飛速發展。不過這城鎮裡原住民與白人一樣也沒什麼太多接觸。兩種是全然不同的文化,沒交集也是理所當然的。在此顯現這沙漠綠洲城鎮給大家瞧瞧:


  這座城鎮位於West McDonnell和East McDonnell中間。Todd St是此鎮的鎮中心,我在裡頭看到不少原住民席地而坐,他們跟別的地方的原住民沒什麼兩樣。結束拍照之後,隔天的目的地為West McDonnell國家公園。

The outback of Australia(4)

22nd/April/2009, Wednesday, day586 in Australia. The weather is hot and sunny in Darwin.

After we visited Uluru, we went back to Yulara, which is the place for tourists to fill petrol and buying something tourists need. We know there is a big neighbour close to Uluru - The Olgas.

We were still plagued by uncounted flyers, which the annoying thing after we entered the outback. These flyers start working since sunrise and stop working after sunset. They are everywhere in the outback. Some people know it, so they've prepared nets. I also suggest everybody enters the outback with nets. Otherwise, you would keep saying "FUCK OFF" all the time until sunset.

After we took photos at Uluru and arrived in Yulara, it was almost 12 o'clock. The sun was very harsh and what made us uncomfortable. I kept drinking water continuously. My car was also thirsty. I drove my car to gas station and filled petrol. We decided to go to Olgas after the meal and filling petrol. I could see Olgas from Uluru and Yulara, but it is still far away from here. I still had 40 kilometers to go.

The Olgas is also named "Katatjuta". It is attractive as its neighbour Uluru. Many people who come to Uluru also travel Katatjuta. I took some photos for everybody:

The Olgas also changes its various colour as its prestigious neighbour Uluru during sunrise and sunset. I think it's some giant rocks as well. It contains a famous place - the valley of winds.

According my travel guide book - lonely planet, Olgas and Uluru were very high mountains hundreds of millions years ago. After consecutive rain erosion, it only remains hundreds of metres height.

When we finished the tour in Uluru and Olgas, we decided to go back to Curtin Spring Station. But I found out our tent had been blown away by strong winds when we were travelling in Uluru. So we changed our plan suddenly. The next place is Alice Springs. The main central city in the outback of Australia.

進入澳洲內陸(3)

  今天是2009年4月22日星期三,來澳洲第586天,達爾文天氣晴朗。

  上篇提到在Curtin Spring過夜,然而其實這個站離Uluru尚有一百公里遠。

  在帳篷裡度過一個睡得不好的夜後,早上五點就被猴子叫起來,我猜他睡得更不好,果然沒錯他說他二、三點就先起來,然後一直沒睡直到早上五點。我明白這晚我睡得不好,但仍舊打鼾而吵到他。但即使睡不好計劃仍然不能改變,早上五點我臉沒洗牙也還沒刷就先跳上車殺去Uluru了。為什麼要起得這麼早呢?當然是看日出囉!

  約一個小時後就到Yulara,這是一個渡假村,也可以算是一個補給小鎮,裡頭有超市、設備良好高級的旅館、銀行、紀念品店和資訊中心,當然國際觀光客多半是住這的,不像我們窮背包客只能睡營地帳篷。不過這裡的房價當然是貴得嚇人,只有爸媽爺奶級的國際遊客才住得起的。多少呢?一晚大約一房二、三百元澳幣吧!

  沒多久就到Uluru的入口處,要收門票費用的,價格為25澳元。再開進沒多久,Uluru就顯現在眼前,十分巨大而明顯,然而我進入時約六點多,這時天還沒全亮,所以這時看烏魯魯是烏黑的。看看吧:

  我們到拍日出的地點去,一直等下去,它越來越亮了,同時,這邊人也相當得多,但大多數是旅行團。接下來都是它漸漸變色的順序:


  拍照完了以後,我們又繼續走別的地方,因為這塊岩石實在是太大了。我不打算環岩走一圈(一圈路程約十公里),只想走比較重要的路段。在此分享給大家:



  走到Uluru的唯一可攀爬地點,到達時因為風強的因素禁止攀登。但我還是把一些照片照下來給大家瞧瞧:

  這些告示皆要求旅客不要攀爬,當風強、下雨或某些因素時,我們不得攀登,但在攀登岩石造成的傷亡是存在的,據官方統計已有三十五條性命在此喪失。當拍完與走完後,我就先去Yulara那頭休息一下和補給,再往Olgas前進去。

2009年4月19日 星期日

進入澳洲內陸(2)

  今天是2009年4月19日,星期天,來澳洲第583天,達爾文市天氣晴朗悶熱。

  我在經過澳大利亞那人煙稀少的紅色內陸時只有在艾麗絲泉(Alice Springs)這地方可以用到免費網路而已。

  上篇提到Coober Pedy,這是一個蛋白石礦小鎮,然而這個鎮並沒有非常特別,它看上去十分地荒涼,典型的沙漠地帶小鎮,它吸引我的是地下建築,包括地下背包客棧。在我住的背包客棧裡也有提到一個十多年前的新聞,它描述一個日本女生拖著手推車從北領地的達爾文市,一路走到幾千公里外的Coober Pedy,然後更令我吃驚的是,她的終點並非Coober Pedy或Adelaide,而是離Coober Pedy還有數千公里的Perth(西澳洲首府),我無法想像她的旅程是有多麼的荒涼、孤寂與艱難,當然也無法體會,但這種行為可以說是不屈不撓的最佳代表嗎?也許吧!但我總覺得這行為太瘋狂了。她很明顯是"現代的唐三藏"、苦行僧,但個人強烈不建議效法她的行為。  這就是這瘋狂的日本女生Sachie(幸惠)的新聞,於Coober Pedy的地下背包客棧佈告欄上。

  4月11日上午十點鐘一到,頃刻跳上我的車子,跟我的旅伴猴子一起殺去下一個目的地:Uluru。我今天推進最多,一次開了七百多公里從Coober Pedy到Curtin Spring,今天幾乎是整天都在開車,沿路也有下去休息或加油幾次,在澳洲的內陸城鎮裡,看到原住民並非難事,我自從進了Coober Pedy就已經有一大票原住民在外面閒晃,他們沒有希望、沒有未來,只好不斷地用酒精麻醉他們自己,讓他們可以麻痺或睡死,好讓自己可以暫時回到那遙遠又抽象的夢幻時代(Dreaming Era),忘卻所有的煩惱和自己土地被貪婪的白人入侵者搶奪走的事實。

  我沿路開車上到達爾文市都可以看到原住民的身影。他們的文化已趨沒落,但今天仍未滅亡。

  到了離Uluru只剩一百公里的Curtin Spring先稍歇一晚,隔天一大早就準備向Uluru前進。這時Uluru已經可以看得到了。


  在Curtin Spring搭帳篷並不須要收費,無電營地是免費的,我在這住一晚,不過這地方雖白天炎熱,但晚上可一點都不會,而且還挺冷的,沒有睡袋的我這晚睡得並不好。Curtin Spring這地方雖營地免費,但洗澡要錢,油錢也很貴,是我來內陸看過以來最貴的。雖然內陸的油價普遍比沿海地區都要高,但比較大的城鎮油價會比較廉價一些。在內陸開車時一定要特別注意自己的油箱還有多少油,和下一個加油站的距離如何,這二件事要拿捏好,不然,你就準備陷在半路動彈不得,在高溫三十多度(甚至四十多度)的氣候下等待別人的援助了。

2009年4月18日 星期六

The outback of Australia(1)

Today is 18th/April 2009, Saturday. Day 582 in Oz. The weather is sunny and sultry in Darwin, which is the capital of Northern Territory and located on the top of this big nation.

10th/April. The route is from Port Augusta to Coober Pedy. I had already changed one of my tyre of my car before I drove away Adelaide, which the city I just travelled 3 days only. Many people said Adelaide is not so special. Yes!! It isn't so special and unique, but I want to visit and travel all the states and capitals in Australia. South Australia has been plagued by water shortage for long period of the time. Most people who live in South Australia dwell in Adelaide mostly. Most places can't be provided water enough in SA.

I kept going to the inside of SA. The scenery got bleak little by little. The temprature got more and more high. This abnormally special views is absolutely unprecedented in my life. Red sand and uncounted bushes are by the side of Stuart Hwy, which is the main road between Adelaide and Darwin. It is not like the desert view I stereotyped previously.


Driving on the long highway made me feel drowsy. You can try to imagine the situations I've experienced. The worse thing is I'm the only one driver in this trip. I could not feel drowsy and yawn, otherwise this car would be ruined and I am not able to be alive anymore.

Finally I still arrived Coober Pedy safely. According to Lonely Planet, it is a famous mineral town and attracted a lot of people who were obsessed to be millionaire immidiately. But many people can't find out any opals for years even decades. Why did I choose this small town to rest tonight? Digging out opals? No, basically this town has not many attracted points. I just know I can see underground things in the town. Underground hostels / Underground church / Underground book store(or, perhaps, underground corpses?). So I made a reservation for underground hostel to stay one night for sure.

The outside of this hostel - Radeka

The climate of Coober Pedy belongs to sub-desert area. It also has extreme weather. This abnormally bleak views let you think you're in the end of the world. After I left Port Augusta, I couldn't have cheap petrol until I left the outback. But I had no choice and must fill it. I also realized many smelly aboriginals lying on the ground in this town. They're kind to tourists, but I think most people don't like to approach them due to their smelly body. They seldom shower to keep them tidy.

This is the view of the underground hostel. I felt so special and excited that I stayed here one night. Hereby I post photos about this hostel for everybody.

My Room

This room is not good for your privacy. No door is in front of the room.

2009年4月9日 星期四

大洋路

  今天是2009年4月9日,星期四。來澳洲第573天。人已在Port Augusta(奧古斯塔港),一個通往紅色內陸的大鎮,在此休息一晚。奧古斯塔港天氣晴。南澳天氣似乎一直也都很棒。

  離開阿德雷德時採買了許多的餅乾、乾糧、水和速食麵。心裡已有渡過極端氣候地帶的準備。駕著我的Toyota Corolla小車繼續這漫長的旅程。但我在這文章裡想先把回憶往回調到八天前的大洋路之旅。

  八天前我人還在美食之都墨爾本,我早上起床,跳上了我的小車後就往普林斯公路上駛去,這條可是可以環澳大利亞的一號公路!但我今天走上它只是為了要去著名的標誌。。。十二使徒岩。

  我中午出發,本以前我下午二、三點就可以看到這段路的招牌:十二使徒岩,結果不是這樣,因為不斷蜿延、峰迴路轉與限速的關係,我足足到下午五點才看到十二使徒岩。大大出乎我的意料之外,不過這一日遊還算圓滿,這地方也有不少背包客在此一遊,也有少數比較富有的客人可以搭上直升機導覽這地方。坦白說,這樣美麗又壯觀的景色很難讓我這司機好好地、專心地開。我的眼睛在開車時還不時向左手邊瞟去,比上空美女還能吸引我的目光。

  我一直在想這地方是怎麼形成的,看看介紹後明顯是因為強烈海浪不斷地侵蝕侵蝕再侵蝕造成的。十二使徒岩已經被海水侵蝕沖走數個,也許幾十年、幾百年後,這些佇立在海岸前的巨大岩石們就不復見了,所以我在此先拍照留個念再說,把回憶留下來。

  我並沒有在此過一夜,而是選擇開夜車再回墨爾本休息。結束這段美麗的大洋路一日遊,帶著好夢入睡。

2009年4月8日 星期三

Adelaide - the capital of SA state

Today is 8th/April/2009, Wednesday, Day 572 in Australia. The weather is sunny in Adelaide. Adelaide is the capital of SA state.

Melbourne, the biggest city of Victoria, the second biggest city of Australia. The first destination of my trip in Australia. I have to say goodbye to it eventually. 6th April, The day before yesterday. I drove nearly 800Km from Melbourne to Adelaide. My car is still well as beginning. Actually I was a little bit sad. Melbourne might be my favorite city in Australia. I stayed here for a long time.

I drove on Western Hwy(A8). There are nothing special on the way. But we found out a giant thing......The monster koala. This huge stuff makes us laugh and astonished. We took picture for it. To be a part of our memory.


The giant koala

When I arrived Adelaide, the time passed 8:00PM. I drove this long way by myself. After I and my friend Grey arrived the hostel we have already booked before, I was almost exhausted and started dragging my suitcase and exhausted body into our dorm room. The roommate are A Japanese guy Taka and a French guy.

7th April. We visited Adelaide by feet. According to the travelling Bible lonely planet, the first thing I have to see is central market. In Adelaide, many people prefer to enjoy Asian food. Why? This city attracts lots of local students and oversea students. Adelaide University and SA University are the main schools in this beautiful city. Everbody knows students can not afford expensive food. So you can get cheap food easily here. It's not as cheap as Taiwan, but it may be the cheapest one in all main cities of Australia.
Grey called his Italian friend David to enjoy the meal with us. We tried the food in central market and had a good meal convivially. Then we started to walk around central Adelaide. I found out many statues erected in city centre. These statues make this city more majestical. Ironically I can't recognize any one of them. I took some photos at the fountain of the Victoria square.

The statue at Victoria Square

The central station in Adelaide

Inside of the central market

The sunny day lit up Adelaide brilliantly at 3:00pm. Time to go to museum. In this big museum, I discovered many themes here. Aboriginal culture and ocean creatures are the most significant things here. I also had an Egyptology lesson in this museum. hmm...yep. That's a real mummy lying in a compartment of this museum. Due to the reason of worrying about curses, I didn't photo it. The body size of the mummy is not big. Maybe it was a famale.

The bones of a giant whale and Grey

When the sunset was coming, we knew it's time to go back our lovely hostel. We plan the trip in Adelaide only 3 days. It's just the chapter of our outback trip. Port Augusta will be our next station.