進入澳洲內陸(5)

　　今天是4月22日星期三，來澳洲第586天，達爾文市天氣晴朗炎熱。

　　上篇提到遊完Uluru與Olgas後，想回到營地裡好好休息，隔天再去國王峽谷，但可惜的是帳篷被強風吹壞，主要的柱子斷掉了，於是我們只好改變計劃直接開夜車去Alice Springs，這個城鎮是澳大利亞內陸最像樣的城鎮，該有的、你想要的設施這美麗的沙漠城鎮應有盡有。

　　抵達Alice Springs時天已黑了，我只想好好的休息，昨晚睡得不好再加上白天連續馬不停蹄地開車，我十分的疲憊，但這座城鎮也一樣有不少原住民和蒼蠅。說到蒼蠅，最多的地方我要列為南澳大利亞州和北領地之間的界牌，這是我來澳大利亞後看過的最大州際界牌。我在這顯眼的界牌前拍照時，其實有十幾隻蒼蠅是在搶著跟我合照的，它們成群結隊地擾亂著每個路人，煩人到了極點，在此顯現給大家看：

　　
　　當然這界牌是正反兩面不同字樣的，看圖即知。

　　好，提遠了，現在已在Alice Springs。人困馬乏又渴，吃完喝完洗完後當然是立刻躺平，彌補昨晚的睡不好覺囉！

　　隔天我們在Alice Springs這城鎮裡拍照留念，Alice Springs在初期還只是一個非常小的鎮，但著名的內陸貫穿火車－－汗(Ghan)通過此地，使得這座小鎮飛速發展。不過這城鎮裡原住民與白人一樣也沒什麼太多接觸。兩種是全然不同的文化，沒交集也是理所當然的。在此顯現這沙漠綠洲城鎮給大家瞧瞧：

　　這座城鎮位於West McDonnell和East McDonnell中間。Todd St是此鎮的鎮中心，我在裡頭看到不少原住民席地而坐，他們跟別的地方的原住民沒什麼兩樣。結束拍照之後，隔天的目的地為West McDonnell國家公園。

The outback of Australia(4)

22nd/April/2009, Wednesday, day586 in Australia. The weather is hot and sunny in Darwin.

After we visited Uluru, we went back to Yulara, which is the place for tourists to fill petrol and buying something tourists need. We know there is a big neighbour close to Uluru - The Olgas.

We were still plagued by uncounted flyers, which the annoying thing after we entered the outback. These flyers start working since sunrise and stop working after sunset. They are everywhere in the outback. Some people know it, so they've prepared nets. I also suggest everybody enters the outback with nets. Otherwise, you would keep saying "FUCK OFF" all the time until sunset.

After we took photos at Uluru and arrived in Yulara, it was almost 12 o'clock. The sun was very harsh and what made us uncomfortable. I kept drinking water continuously. My car was also thirsty. I drove my car to gas station and filled petrol. We decided to go to Olgas after the meal and filling petrol. I could see Olgas from Uluru and Yulara, but it is still far away from here. I still had 40 kilometers to go.

The Olgas is also named "Katatjuta". It is attractive as its neighbour Uluru. Many people who come to Uluru also travel Katatjuta. I took some photos for everybody:

The Olgas also changes its various colour as its prestigious neighbour Uluru during sunrise and sunset. I think it's some giant rocks as well. It contains a famous place - the valley of winds.

According my travel guide book - lonely planet, Olgas and Uluru were very high mountains hundreds of millions years ago. After consecutive rain erosion, it only remains hundreds of metres height.

When we finished the tour in Uluru and Olgas, we decided to go back to Curtin Spring Station. But I found out our tent had been blown away by strong winds when we were travelling in Uluru. So we changed our plan suddenly. The next place is Alice Springs. The main central city in the outback of Australia.

進入澳洲內陸(3)

　　今天是2009年4月22日星期三，來澳洲第586天，達爾文天氣晴朗。

　　上篇提到在Curtin Spring過夜，然而其實這個站離Uluru尚有一百公里遠。

　　在帳篷裡度過一個睡得不好的夜後，早上五點就被猴子叫起來，我猜他睡得更不好，果然沒錯他說他二、三點就先起來，然後一直沒睡直到早上五點。我明白這晚我睡得不好，但仍舊打鼾而吵到他。但即使睡不好計劃仍然不能改變，早上五點我臉沒洗牙也還沒刷就先跳上車殺去Uluru了。為什麼要起得這麼早呢？當然是看日出囉！

　　約一個小時後就到Yulara，這是一個渡假村，也可以算是一個補給小鎮，裡頭有超市、設備良好高級的旅館、銀行、紀念品店和資訊中心，當然國際觀光客多半是住這的，不像我們窮背包客只能睡營地帳篷。不過這裡的房價當然是貴得嚇人，只有爸媽爺奶級的國際遊客才住得起的。多少呢？一晚大約一房二、三百元澳幣吧！

　　沒多久就到Uluru的入口處，要收門票費用的，價格為25澳元。再開進沒多久，Uluru就顯現在眼前，十分巨大而明顯，然而我進入時約六點多，這時天還沒全亮，所以這時看烏魯魯是烏黑的。看看吧：

　　我們到拍日出的地點去，一直等下去，它越來越亮了，同時，這邊人也相當得多，但大多數是旅行團。接下來都是它漸漸變色的順序：

　　拍照完了以後，我們又繼續走別的地方，因為這塊岩石實在是太大了。我不打算環岩走一圈(一圈路程約十公里)，只想走比較重要的路段。在此分享給大家：

　　走到Uluru的唯一可攀爬地點，到達時因為風強的因素禁止攀登。但我還是把一些照片照下來給大家瞧瞧：

　　這些告示皆要求旅客不要攀爬，當風強、下雨或某些因素時，我們不得攀登，但在攀登岩石造成的傷亡是存在的，據官方統計已有三十五條性命在此喪失。當拍完與走完後，我就先去Yulara那頭休息一下和補給，再往Olgas前進去。

進入澳洲內陸(2)

　　今天是2009年4月19日，星期天，來澳洲第583天，達爾文市天氣晴朗悶熱。

　　我在經過澳大利亞那人煙稀少的紅色內陸時只有在艾麗絲泉(Alice Springs)這地方可以用到免費網路而已。

　　上篇提到Coober Pedy，這是一個蛋白石礦小鎮，然而這個鎮並沒有非常特別，它看上去十分地荒涼，典型的沙漠地帶小鎮，它吸引我的是地下建築，包括地下背包客棧。在我住的背包客棧裡也有提到一個十多年前的新聞，它描述一個日本女生拖著手推車從北領地的達爾文市，一路走到幾千公里外的Coober Pedy，然後更令我吃驚的是，她的終點並非Coober Pedy或Adelaide，而是離Coober Pedy還有數千公里的Perth(西澳洲首府)，我無法想像她的旅程是有多麼的荒涼、孤寂與艱難，當然也無法體會，但這種行為可以說是不屈不撓的最佳代表嗎？也許吧！但我總覺得這行為太瘋狂了。她很明顯是"現代的唐三藏"、苦行僧，但個人強烈不建議效法她的行為。　　這就是這瘋狂的日本女生Sachie(幸惠)的新聞，於Coober Pedy的地下背包客棧佈告欄上。

　　4月11日上午十點鐘一到，頃刻跳上我的車子，跟我的旅伴猴子一起殺去下一個目的地：Uluru。我今天推進最多，一次開了七百多公里從Coober Pedy到Curtin Spring，今天幾乎是整天都在開車，沿路也有下去休息或加油幾次，在澳洲的內陸城鎮裡，看到原住民並非難事，我自從進了Coober Pedy就已經有一大票原住民在外面閒晃，他們沒有希望、沒有未來，只好不斷地用酒精麻醉他們自己，讓他們可以麻痺或睡死，好讓自己可以暫時回到那遙遠又抽象的夢幻時代(Dreaming Era)，忘卻所有的煩惱和自己土地被貪婪的白人入侵者搶奪走的事實。

　　我沿路開車上到達爾文市都可以看到原住民的身影。他們的文化已趨沒落，但今天仍未滅亡。

　　到了離Uluru只剩一百公里的Curtin Spring先稍歇一晚，隔天一大早就準備向Uluru前進。這時Uluru已經可以看得到了。

　　在Curtin Spring搭帳篷並不須要收費，無電營地是免費的，我在這住一晚，不過這地方雖白天炎熱，但晚上可一點都不會，而且還挺冷的，沒有睡袋的我這晚睡得並不好。Curtin Spring這地方雖營地免費，但洗澡要錢，油錢也很貴，是我來內陸看過以來最貴的。雖然內陸的油價普遍比沿海地區都要高，但比較大的城鎮油價會比較廉價一些。在內陸開車時一定要特別注意自己的油箱還有多少油，和下一個加油站的距離如何，這二件事要拿捏好，不然，你就準備陷在半路動彈不得，在高溫三十多度(甚至四十多度)的氣候下等待別人的援助了。

The outback of Australia(1)

Today is 18th/April 2009, Saturday. Day 582 in Oz. The weather is sunny and sultry in Darwin, which is the capital of Northern Territory and located on the top of this big nation.

10th/April. The route is from Port Augusta to Coober Pedy. I had already changed one of my tyre of my car before I drove away Adelaide, which the city I just travelled 3 days only. Many people said Adelaide is not so special. Yes!! It isn't so special and unique, but I want to visit and travel all the states and capitals in Australia. South Australia has been plagued by water shortage for long period of the time. Most people who live in South Australia dwell in Adelaide mostly. Most places can't be provided water enough in SA.

I kept going to the inside of SA. The scenery got bleak little by little. The temprature got more and more high. This abnormally special views is absolutely unprecedented in my life. Red sand and uncounted bushes are by the side of Stuart Hwy, which is the main road between Adelaide and Darwin. It is not like the desert view I stereotyped previously.


Driving on the long highway made me feel drowsy. You can try to imagine the situations I've experienced. The worse thing is I'm the only one driver in this trip. I could not feel drowsy and yawn, otherwise this car would be ruined and I am not able to be alive anymore.

Finally I still arrived Coober Pedy safely. According to Lonely Planet, it is a famous mineral town and attracted a lot of people who were obsessed to be millionaire immidiately. But many people can't find out any opals for years even decades. Why did I choose this small town to rest tonight? Digging out opals? No, basically this town has not many attracted points. I just know I can see underground things in the town. Underground hostels / Underground church / Underground book store(or, perhaps, underground corpses?). So I made a reservation for underground hostel to stay one night for sure.

The outside of this hostel - Radeka

The climate of Coober Pedy belongs to sub-desert area. It also has extreme weather. This abnormally bleak views let you think you're in the end of the world. After I left Port Augusta, I couldn't have cheap petrol until I left the outback. But I had no choice and must fill it. I also realized many smelly aboriginals lying on the ground in this town. They're kind to tourists, but I think most people don't like to approach them due to their smelly body. They seldom shower to keep them tidy.

This is the view of the underground hostel. I felt so special and excited that I stayed here one night. Hereby I post photos about this hostel for everybody.

My Room

This room is not good for your privacy. No door is in front of the room.

大洋路

　　今天是2009年4月9日，星期四。來澳洲第573天。人已在Port Augusta(奧古斯塔港)，一個通往紅色內陸的大鎮，在此休息一晚。奧古斯塔港天氣晴。南澳天氣似乎一直也都很棒。

　　離開阿德雷德時採買了許多的餅乾、乾糧、水和速食麵。心裡已有渡過極端氣候地帶的準備。駕著我的Toyota Corolla小車繼續這漫長的旅程。但我在這文章裡想先把回憶往回調到八天前的大洋路之旅。

　　八天前我人還在美食之都墨爾本，我早上起床，跳上了我的小車後就往普林斯公路上駛去，這條可是可以環澳大利亞的一號公路！但我今天走上它只是為了要去著名的標誌。。。十二使徒岩。

　　我中午出發，本以前我下午二、三點就可以看到這段路的招牌：十二使徒岩，結果不是這樣，因為不斷蜿延、峰迴路轉與限速的關係，我足足到下午五點才看到十二使徒岩。大大出乎我的意料之外，不過這一日遊還算圓滿，這地方也有不少背包客在此一遊，也有少數比較富有的客人可以搭上直升機導覽這地方。坦白說，這樣美麗又壯觀的景色很難讓我這司機好好地、專心地開。我的眼睛在開車時還不時向左手邊瞟去，比上空美女還能吸引我的目光。

　　我一直在想這地方是怎麼形成的，看看介紹後明顯是因為強烈海浪不斷地侵蝕侵蝕再侵蝕造成的。十二使徒岩已經被海水侵蝕沖走數個，也許幾十年、幾百年後，這些佇立在海岸前的巨大岩石們就不復見了，所以我在此先拍照留個念再說，把回憶留下來。

　　我並沒有在此過一夜，而是選擇開夜車再回墨爾本休息。結束這段美麗的大洋路一日遊，帶著好夢入睡。

Adelaide - the capital of SA state

Today is 8th/April/2009, Wednesday, Day 572 in Australia. The weather is sunny in Adelaide. Adelaide is the capital of SA state.

Melbourne, the biggest city of Victoria, the second biggest city of Australia. The first destination of my trip in Australia. I have to say goodbye to it eventually. 6th April, The day before yesterday. I drove nearly 800Km from Melbourne to Adelaide. My car is still well as beginning. Actually I was a little bit sad. Melbourne might be my favorite city in Australia. I stayed here for a long time.

I drove on Western Hwy(A8). There are nothing special on the way. But we found out a giant thing......The monster koala. This huge stuff makes us laugh and astonished. We took picture for it. To be a part of our memory.

The giant koala

When I arrived Adelaide, the time passed 8:00PM. I drove this long way by myself. After I and my friend Grey arrived the hostel we have already booked before, I was almost exhausted and started dragging my suitcase and exhausted body into our dorm room. The roommate are A Japanese guy Taka and a French guy.

7th April. We visited Adelaide by feet. According to the travelling Bible lonely planet, the first thing I have to see is central market. In Adelaide, many people prefer to enjoy Asian food. Why? This city attracts lots of local students and oversea students. Adelaide University and SA University are the main schools in this beautiful city. Everbody knows students can not afford expensive food. So you can get cheap food easily here. It's not as cheap as Taiwan, but it may be the cheapest one in all main cities of Australia.

Grey called his Italian friend David to enjoy the meal with us. We tried the food in central market and had a good meal convivially. Then we started to walk around central Adelaide. I found out many statues erected in city centre. These statues make this city more majestical. Ironically I can't recognize any one of them. I took some photos at the fountain of the Victoria square.

The statue at Victoria Square

The central station in Adelaide

Inside of the central market

The sunny day lit up Adelaide brilliantly at 3:00pm. Time to go to museum. In this big museum, I discovered many themes here. Aboriginal culture and ocean creatures are the most significant things here. I also had an Egyptology lesson in this museum. hmm...yep. That's a real mummy lying in a compartment of this museum. Due to the reason of worrying about curses, I didn't photo it. The body size of the mummy is not big. Maybe it was a famale.

The bones of a giant whale and Grey

When the sunset was coming, we knew it's time to go back our lovely hostel. We plan the trip in Adelaide only 3 days. It's just the chapter of our outback trip. Port Augusta will be our next station.

北歐人

　　今天是2009年3月24日，星期二，來澳洲第557天，墨爾本天氣陰涼帶小雨。

　　前幾周我住背包客棧，我總算深入接觸到北歐人，北歐人就是所謂的瑞典、丹麥、芬蘭、挪威與冰島人。因為他們是我的室友，我可以深入了解北歐人的特性。

　　北歐人與一般的歐洲人沒什麼太多的不同，但他們的頭髮比較金，皮膚比較白，因為北歐地理位置上接近極地，冬季有時有好幾周的夜晚，夏季有時有好幾周的白晝，這種極端的氣候造成他們有著稍微不同的外貌。

　　北歐人的英語教育是世界上最成功的，他們的官方語言與母語並非英語，但他們可以講得跟英語為母語的人一樣好，溝通完全不會是問題，口音也不會太明顯或難懂，可說是令人羨慕。還有，他們看英語小說不太需要字典，看美國電影也不需要字幕，嚇不嚇人？但恐怕北歐國家不只是英語教育成功，其它方面的教育也都不會太差。

　　芬蘭人會講瑞典話，在芬蘭，瑞典話也是官方語言，瑞典曾統治芬蘭不算太長，大概五、六百年而已。一提到芬蘭，稍有地理概念的人一想到的大概是芬蘭浴和千湖國吧？不過我的瑞典室友告訴我怎麼分辨芬蘭人，現在基本上我也會看了，芬蘭的的髮色恐怕全世界絕無僅有，這種髮色介於黃色與白色之間，看上去很像染的。看下圖吧－－

　　這樣有線索了嗎？知道怎麼看了嗎？除了淡黃色以外，他們基本上也是直髮，許多老外是又黃又卷的頭髮，但芬蘭人有些不是。這是氣候造成這種特色嗎？或許吧！

　　我的北歐室友很喜歡買醉加party，歐洲人與西方人特別愛喝酒，台灣人的飲酒文化在西方人面前根本小巫見大巫，他們可以不要吃好的，但酒不能不喝，雖然我不能說每個西方人都非常愛喝酒，但周末去酒吧買醉(也許，外加尋歡)只是他們日常生活的一部分罷了，即使在澳大利亞這個多種族的國家，周末夜也很少看到亞洲人出沒在酒吧。

　　北歐氣候方面，在冬天的北歐，零下二三四十度的氣溫是很常見的，真是嚇人。夏天氣溫大概也差不多二十度左右而已。至於地震這種東西，我的瑞典室友告訴我，她們還沒體驗過。。。。

Tassie

　　今天是2009年2月22日，星期日，來澳洲第527天，墨爾本天氣晴。

　　結束了約二十天的塔斯馬尼亞行後，在此向大家介紹一下去塔斯馬尼亞的相關事項。

　　一、地理與氣候上的資訊：
　　塔斯位處澳洲大陸的東南隅，與紐西蘭的南島緯度相同，夏季溫暖，冬季寒冷，在塔斯馬尼亞北部的氣候明顯比南部溫暖一些，南部有最大城Hobart，這地方到了夜晚會變冷，即使夏季也不例外，要注意保暖。

　　塔斯馬尼亞的西南部是原始森林，汽車與四輪傳動車無法進入，只能用步行探索，或是飛機從上空俯瞰。

　　塔斯馬尼亞的北部最大城Devonport是有車的人進來塔斯的唯一門戶。這邊的氣候相當溫和宜人，常常是清晨下小雨，但過早上十點後就逐漸放晴。北部的氣候大抵上來說都相當溫暖。第二大城Launceston離Devonport只約一百公里，所以大抵上氣候也差不多。

　　西部的氣候比較狂野且常下雨，這地方被西南原始森林阻隔，氣候上較不宜人居，唯一像樣的二個小鎮是Strahan與Queenstown。

　　二、不能錯過的東西：
　　看塔斯馬尼亞惡魔、去Hobart參加Salamanca市集(只在周六上午與下午三點前)、去Wellington Mountain俯視整個Hobart與拍照、去Launceston看奔流峽谷、參觀鐘乳石洞、森林健行、東部海灘巡禮、亞瑟港、Stanley的巨石(有點像Urulu)、開車環島遊、塔斯馬尼亞的特產啤酒Cascade與Boag、吃新鮮美味的生蠔(有時去海邊也撿得到)。

　　三、找工作：
　　大部分的背包客只能做採水果的機會比較多，很多人選擇working hostel，也就是仲介背包客去農場打工的背包客棧，產季在三月開始，有蘋果、草莓、藍莓、葡萄、櫻桃、洋梨可以摘採。如果可能的話，魚工廠也可以試試。餐廳或服務業在Hobart比較多。

　　四、租車資訊：
　　租車只適合只想做短期遊的人，一周租金約200至350左右，很多人是一下飛機後到Hostel就開始找伴同行分攤油資與車資。租車在大城市Hobart與Launceston都有很多資訊可提供。

　　五、住宿：
　　在塔斯馬尼亞的大城市如Hobart與Launceston找住並非難事，但仍建議事先預訂。因為夏季旺季時常會住滿。塔斯馬尼亞的住宿明顯比雪梨和墨爾本便宜一些，多半是20/一晚左右的價位。

　　另外在塔斯馬尼亞開車時要特別注意，夜晚開車時，許多野生動物會到處亂晃或跑出來給你撞，入夜後盡可能不要開快車，甚至不要上路。在塔斯的公路上最常見的景觀就是路旁被撞死的野生動物，而且比例明顯比大陸上的公路還要多。

Tasmania

Today is 12/02/2009. Thursday. Day 517 in Tasmania. The weather in Tasmania is cloudy and a bit rainy.

I've been staying in this small and beautiful island Tasmania for 9 days. In the past 9 days, I've travelled from north Tasmania to south until Hobart.

3rd/Feb, I boarded on the big ferry "Spirit of Tasmania" with my car. I paid 235AUD for this ferry. This giant ferry is really a big monster. Why? This giant contains lots of rooms / travel service offices / car parkings / kitchens......everything you need. You can definitely say it's the Goddess of Bass Strait.

4th/Feb, Early morning at 6, I opened my eyes. The scene showed in my sight...hills and rural town. When I saw this view, I knew I had already prepared to experience this island which everybody praises.

The first station is Devonport. The third biggest city in Tas. I was interested this place. I determined to stay here 1 day. The hostel for this night is Tasman backpackers. When I checked in it, I'd suddenly realized this is working hostel. Everybody knows Asian always like to work. So I found out most people who lived in this hostel are Asians...

5th/Feb, I checked out Tasman Backpackers to go to the next destination. The Second biggest city in Tas...Launceston. I checked in Launceston backpackers. This backpacker has very good environment and good kitchen (and beautiful receptionist). I stayed here 3 days and travelled around Launceston.

In Launceston, the most famous spot is cataract gorge. This place contains 1 river between two steep cliffs. I climbed cliff and walked around this place. The views made me amaze due to the spectacular views. But this place is not very wide. After travelling cataract gorge, I went back to the central Launceston and tasted fish and chips.

I also went to Mole Creek National Park to see the stalactite. The cave of stalactite is very cold only Celsius roughly 9 degrees. You need jackets to come in. I found out I ran out of the battery of my digital camera. Thanks to my travel partner German girl Linda. She still has digital camera and took some photos inside...lucky. The guide of this cave introduced the statement of the history of this stalactitic cave. God has been sculpting this stalactitic cave millions of years to show his artistic gift for all the people. But I also discovered some clues of human vandalic ruin roughly few decades ago.

8th/Feb, I left Launceston and started to go to Hobart, which is the biggest city in Tas. From Launceston to Hobart is only 200Km. When I and Linda arrived in Hobart, we checked in the city central backpacker and stayed here one night. She had already joined a tour before we arrived Hobart. So we separate in Hobart. I'm still trying to get a job in Hobart while I typed this article.

10th/Feb, I drove my car with a Hong Kong guy Ringo and a Hong Kong girl Winnie to travel around Hobart and Tasman peninsula. The temperature on this 1300m high mountain is always under 10. It's summer now, but I never felt any summer atmosphere on the top of this mountain. The pictures of the top of this mountain show me the scene in winter. Apparently this place will be veiled by mass snow in winter. The view on the top appeals uncountable tourists each year. I can almost see all the southeast Tasmania...Tasman Peninsula...Eaglehawk Neck...all the views of Hobart. Ringo and me never stop surprising when we standed on the top. But it's too cold on the top. I asked for return soon.

We returned to Hobart afterwards. We didn't spend too much time for Willington Mt. We still had a lot of time to go to Tasman peninsula and departed at 3:30pm. Ringo asked for tasting oyster, so I drove my car to reach the famous oyster farm. I think he extremely likes oysters and ate them very quick. He said these oysters is the reason he came here. I think I fulfilled his will apparently.

Then we went to the last place we want to go...Port Arthur. Port Arthur has notorious history. 100-odd years ago. This place was for prisoners. Especially for those prisoners who committed murder and to be sentenced death penalty. So we joined ghost tour of 9:15pm. It was really spooky and impressive experience. Antique church and hospital made everybody terrified even screamed. But there were too many people in this tour, I didn't be terrified obviously. After this tour, we went back to Hobart. This time I had to drive carefully. Because I saw many wild animals beside of this road. Some of them were road killed. Finally, we went back to Hobart and hostel safely and had a good sleep. I'm lucky enough that I'm not followed by ghosts in my return.